Trolling 101: Cover More Water, Catch More Fish

Trolling gets a bad reputation from anglers who think it's just dragging a lure behind a boat while doing nothing. These are the same anglers who sit in one spot casting at the same stump for three hours without a bite. Meanwhile, the troller covers a mile of water and finds where the fish are actually holding.

Trolling is a search tool. It's a presentation technique. And for some species — walleye, trout, striper, salmon — it's the most effective method there is. Here's how to get started.

What Trolling Actually Is

Trolling means pulling lures or bait behind a moving boat at a controlled speed. The boat does the work of casting and retrieving. You control depth, speed, and coverage pattern. When a fish hits, you fight it like normal.

Think of it this way: casting covers a circle around your position. Trolling covers a line through the water. When fish are spread out or you don't know where they are, trolling finds them faster than anything else.

Speed Control: The Most Important Variable

Trolling speed determines everything: what depth your lure runs, how it acts, and which species you'll catch. General guidelines:

If you have a trolling motor with speed control, use it. Electric trolling motors at their lowest settings are perfect for crappie and walleye. For faster trolling, you'll use the outboard at idle or a controlled throttle.

Controlling Depth

Getting your lure to the right depth is everything. Fish live at specific depths based on temperature, oxygen, and forage, and if your lure is 5 feet above them, they won't chase it up. Three ways to control depth:

1. Diving Crankbaits

The lip size and line length determine how deep a crankbait dives. More line out = deeper. Manufacturers publish dive curves for their lures. A Rapala Shad Rap on 100 feet of line might hit 12 feet.

2. Lead Core Line or Snap Weights

For intermediate trolling, snap-on weights or lead core line gets standard lures deeper without special equipment. A 1 oz snap weight 50 feet in front of a crankbait adds 5-10 feet of depth.

3. Downriggers

The precision tool. A downrigger is a boom with a cable, weight, and release clip. Set the weight to exactly the depth you want, clip your line, and troll. When a fish hits, the line releases and you fight the fish on a free line. This is advanced but incredibly effective for trout and salmon.

Trolling Patterns

Don't just drive in a straight line. Effective trolling patterns include:

• S-curves — gentle weaving speeds up and slows down the inside and outside lures, triggering reaction strikes
• Contour trolling — follow a depth contour line on your map/fish finder. If fish are at 15 feet, stay on the 15-foot line.
• Zig-zag — cut across structure like points, humps, and drop-offs at angles
• Grid pattern — systematic coverage of a flat or open area to locate scattered fish

Basic Trolling Setup

You don't need a dedicated trolling boat. Any boat with a motor (including kayaks with trolling motors) can troll. Basic setup:

• Rod: 7' to 8'6" medium to medium-heavy with a flexible tip (absorbs strikes without pulling the hook)
• Reel: Level-wind baitcaster with line counter (tells you exactly how much line is out — critical for depth control)
• Line: 10-15 lb mono or braid depending on species
• Rod holders: Flush-mount or adjustable. You need your rods secured while the boat moves.

Common Trolling Mistakes

• Going too fast (most common — slower is almost always better)
• All lures at the same depth (spread them out vertically)
• Not checking lures regularly (weeds and debris kill lure action)
• Ignoring your fish finder (troll through fish, not over empty water)
• Too many lines when starting out (start with 2, add more as you learn)

Find the right trolling lure for your target species with our bait and lure selector, and tie strong knots that handle trolling pressure with our knot guide.